Reply to comment

A FISHY TAIL!

My ancestors came from Bengal - a delta fissured by a profusion of rivers and their tributaries.Fish is naturally an essential and irreplaceable part of the diet in this part of the world and Hilsa ('Ilish' in Bengali) is the crown jewel.I am a true Bengali in that my anytime anywhere favorite food is Hilsa.

Hilsa is nutritious - it is an oily fish which is rich in essential (omega 3) fatty acids. It also has a divine aroma, flaky texture and a sweetish taste, all of which combine to elevate Hilsa to the pinnacle of the Bengali's gastronomic aspirations.It is not surprising that the Bengali considers Hilsa to be a food fit to be offered to the Gods.And little Bengali girls learn a popular nursery rhyme which sings about how a beloved new daughter-in-law cooked a gravy with Hilsa!

I love Hilsa prepared in any way - steamed, smoked, baked in young plantain leaves, fried, in a mustard or curd gravy, with eggplant, ladyfinger or gourd or little cones of sun-dried lentil paste or condiments like cumin or onion seeds.The tail is the prized slice, offered to special guests though even the oil in which Hilsa is fried is sublime mixed with hot rice and a little salt and revved up with bites of fresh green chilly. Hilsa roe is also a popular side dish with lentils and rice or just by itself as a cocktail snack.

Like with all good things in life, there are, literally, bones to pick with Hilsa, which is crisscrossed by numerous bones. Enter resourceful chefs who serve deboned Hilsa. Kudos as well to the enterprising souls who substitute the shad fish (typically found off the east coast of North America and with a flavor and consistency similar to that of Hilsa) in Bengali cuisine in the US. It is prophetic that the word "shad" means "a wonderful taste" in Bengali!

- Aparajita Bhattacharyya